Ever since Charles Darwin published his theory of evolution, the Galapagos have become Ecuador’s top tourist draw. But while these volcanic islands deserve attention, their pint-sized host country — with Andean peaks, Amazonian jungle, colonial cities and sun-soaked beaches— also packs a real punch.
Hemmed in by misty mountains high in the Andes, Ecuador’s capital was an Incan city before the Spanish conquests. Quito’s historic center is so crammed with churches, colonial mansions and plazas that UNESCO designated it a world heritage site in 1978.
Plaza Grande, center of Quito's UNESCO-protected heritage district
Many of the city’s monuments date from colonial times, but the grandest is the more recently built Basilica. Dating from the 19th century, the imposing façade of South America’s largest gothic church rests on a hill overlooking downtown, and a climb to the top reveals spectacular city views.
View from the Basilica, Quito
In 1541, a Spanish expedition set out from Quito in search of El Dorado, a city rumored to be made entirely of gold. On becoming separated from the main party, a group led by conquistador Francisco De Orellana became the first Europeans to navigate the length of the Amazon river.
Napo River, Amazon Basin
Nowadays, the town bearing Orellana’s name has become the main point of departure for trips into Yasuni National Park. This vast swathe of Amazon jungle is so large that isolated tribes who’ve never had contact with humans still live in its depths.
Yasuni National Park
While El Dorado remains undiscovered, liquid gold has been discovered in the region’s vast oil reserves. In an impoverished country like Ecuador, there’s huge pressure to exploit these resources, though the drilling comes with environmental consequence.
Children play in the Rio Napo. Environmental groups have raised concerns about oil drilling polluting the national park.
Our Yasuni expedition began with a boat ride along the Napo river, a wide torrent of water winding through thick jungle. Along the way we saw sunbathing turtles and brightly-colored birds before reaching our campsite, a ranger station tucked deep in the forest. Jungle treks revealed even more wildlife, including birds, capuchin, squirrels, howler monkeys, toucans and spectacular views from a staircase tower reaching high into the treetops.
Yasuni National Park is home to thousands of bird species
After a couple of days in the jungle, we decided to head for the coast, though we also stopped by Banos, a small mountain town famed for it’s volcanic hot springs, along the way. Days later we were in Guayaquil, Ecuador’s largest city and economic hub. Modern high rises give the downtown a big city feel, but the sprawling shanty town of Las Penas, a jumble of brightly-colored buildings overlooking the water, lend this place character.
The colorful Las Penas neighborhood, Guayaquil
Guayaquil isn’t only the gateway to the Galapagos (most island-bound flights stop here), but also to Ecuador’s Pacific coast. We spent nearly a week in Montanita, a beachside village popular with the surfing crowd. Five laid-back days was a great way to unwind after four months backpacking in South America, and a fitting way to recharge before setting off to explore the Galapagos ourselves.
Tom Mountford