With a recent history of unstable populist leaders, a vicious military dictatorship and financial crises, Argentina has endured its fair share of troubles. Despite these difficulties, people remain deeply proud of their distinctive culture, arts and cuisine and, most importantly, eager to share them with visitors.
Architecture in Buenos Aires follows European fashions
The capital city, Buenos Aires (or just BA), is a testament to the waves of mostly Spanish and Italian immigrants who settled in the city during the early 20th century. Restaurants serve up heavy doses of pasta, pizza and empanadas, alongside enormous steaks that live up to their global reputation. European heritage is also reflected in the city's architecture; BA's elegant buildings and leafy boulevards wouldn't look out of place in Paris or Rome, though cracked sidewalks and pervasive graffiti hints at a turbulent past.
The city’s main square, Plaza de Mayo, is surrounded by historic buildings, including a cathedral, The Cabildo (the original town Hall), and the Casa Rosada – the grand, rose-hewed palace Evita Perón, the second wife of Argentine President Juan Perón, once called home. Evita was a controversial political figure (her husband was often likened to fascist dictators), but her efforts championing the rights of Argentina's poor means she's still wildly popular around the country, decades after her tragic death. An estimated 3 million people attended her funeral in 1952, and BA's central radio tower — rising high above Avenida 9 de Julio, named for Argentina's independence day — is still emblazoned with her silhouette.
Casa Rosada, Buenos Aires
South of the plaza, San Telmo’s cobbled streets include some of BA’s busiest bars and restaurants, artist studios, tango clubs and antique stores. Every Sunday, artisans hawk their wares along Avenida Indepencia, transforming the neighborhood’s largest avenue into an al fresco market. Many pieces feature images of either Evita or tango dancers, who also gather in the adjoining square for a Sunday afternoon dance.
Avenida Indepencia Sunday Market, Buenos Aires
First developed in BA’s slums and working-class neighborhoods, tango’s fancy footwork and dramatic flare is now stereotypically Argentinian. Local theaters put on evening shows for tourists, while tango clubs (milongas) open late for dancers to practice their moves. We visited the Catulo Tango Club, a spectacular dance and dinner show that included a choreographed piece based on the life of Evita herself.
A couple dance the Tango, Plaza San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Like many South American countries, Catholicism plays a major role in Argentinian society. These days, the country is particularly proud of Pope Francis, the former bishop of Buenos Aires who's now roundly regarded as Il Papa. Argentina’s second city, Córdoba — now a major university town — was also founded by Catholic missionaries, as were most regional universities.
Museo Historico, Córdoba
In a country awash with churches, we thought Córdoba’s striking Iglesias Cathedral in the central plaza was still a standout. The nearby Museo Historico is an equally impressive structure, featuring carved lintels and delicate balconies. The building is also Argentina’s oldest university, founded by Jesuits in 1613.
Iglesias Cathedral, Córdoba
After the relentless buzz of Argentina’s first and second cities, we were happy to escape to laidback Mendoza for a few days. The heart of Argentina’s wine region attracts thousands of tourists, but — in addition to being synonymous with trips to the nearby vineyards — the town is fast becoming an adrenaline sports mecca. Tour companies throughout town run trekking, mountain biking, horse riding and whitewater rafting down the Class III and IV rapids of the Mendoza river. Our morning trip didn't start out well; I was immediately dumped into the freezing rapids and had to be dragged back inside by my boat mates.
Bodegas (aka vineyards) outside Mendoza
Nearby Mendoza is a tight concentration of wineries easily explored by bicycle. Some are established international brands, while others are lesser known vineyards producing some really interesting vintage. Our favorite was the arbor-strewn garden of Alandes Bodega, where we enjoyed some creative takes on traditional classics like Tempranillo, Torrentes and Malbec. All of these wines started with European grapes brought over by early settlers, and — similar to the country’s food, architecture and dance — have since morphed into something uniquely Argentinian.
Tom Mountford