Many of the wildlife species found in Borneo — including the Proboscis monkey and the pygmy elephant — are found no where else on earth. And while it seems like the deep green jungle has a timeless quality – you could be hiking through Jurassic Park — this delicate eco-system is under constant threat. Experts believe a forested area the size of Belgium is lost to illegal logging and plantations every year, which in turn threatens the animals who call this place home.
Borneo jungle
With habitat destruction the principle threat to Borneo’s wildlife, a number of wildlife charities tirelessly work to preserve what's left. Set in pristine forest on the eastern side of Sabah, the Sepilok Orang-Utan Sanctuary hosts between 60-80 orphaned orang-utans. Most are victims of habitat destruction and / or the illegal pet trade, which runs rampant throughout the island. We had timed our arrival with the morning feeding only to find ourselves caught in a heavy downpour. The apes didn’t like it, either: the youngest orangs had to be goaded outdoors for their morning serving of bananas. We spotted one peeping out miserably from beneath a climbing frame, while another tried using a piece of celery as a raincover. Despite the rain, it was wonderful watching these remarkable creatures, especially as they used their long arms to swing through the trees. Their gestures and facial expressions are captivating, hence their nickname, “the wild man of the forest.”
Al fresco breakfast at Sepilok Orang-utan Sanctuary
Also in Sepilok, a conservation sanctuary has been established to protect the Sun Bear, which also lives in Vietnam and China. Along with the usual dangers of habitat loss, these treetop dwellers (and the world’s smallest bear species) are also threatened by traditional Chinese medicine, which values their bile. The center boasts bespoke open air enclosures where bears are free to roam, although many seemed content just snoozing in the tree tops.
Nap time
From Sepilok, we followed the Kinabatangan river dee[ into the jungle, hoping to glimpse more wildlife. From our camp, accessible only by motorboat, it initially didn't seem like much could survive in the river’s muddy waters. However, we soon spotted crocodiles and giant monitor lizards crawling along the banks, while troops of Proboscis and Macaque monkeys swung through the dense forest above. We also saw gibbons and several species of birds, including hornbills, kingfishers, owls and eagles. At night we were led into the forest hunting for spiders, tree frogs and lizards, which can apparently be spotted by the reflections of their eyes.
The Kinabatangan is Malaysia's second longest river
Though famous for its lush forests, Borneo also boasts an impressive range of mountains. The island’s highest peak, Mount Kinabalu, stands at 4,095 meters above sea level. The trek up was certainly challenging and took us a couple of days. On the first day, we hiked through tropical jungle, past carnivorous pitcher plants and stunted woodlands wreathed in cloud, before overnighting in a small village, Laban Rata, two kilometers from the summit. We caught a few hours of fitful sleep before starting our final assault on the peak, which we reached just before dawn. As the sun rose, we found ourselves sitting atop a spectacular moonscape with a sea of clouds, and the rest of the island, far below.
Atop Mount Kinabalu
We spent the following night at the base of the mountain before hitching a ride to the nearest town, Kota Kinabalu. The mountain’s namesake city proved to be a fantastic place to rest our weary limbs. From the harbor, boats run regularly to the five islands that comprise Tunku Abdul Rahman national park; On Manukan Island, we found a gorgeous crescent of sand beach fringed with palm trees.
Manukan Island
Back in town, we took in sunset beers at waterfront, feasted on fresh fish and caught some spectacular sunsets. With its diverse landscapes and extraordinary wildlife, Borneo is more than the usual tropical holiday of beaches and cocktails. Regardless, our legs were sore for at least a week.
Tom Mountford