Lapped by the Caribbean’s turquoise waters, it’s easy to see why Mexico’s white sand beaches are popular with tourists. Cancun, in particular, has become famous for the rash of all-inclusive (and expensive) resorts catering almost entirely to foreigners. Nowadays, the town’s wild popularity has become its worst quality. Not only does the vast parade of identical resorts feel somewhat soulless, the city feels more like an American suburb than anywhere in Mexico.
White sands and turquoise waters on the Mayan Riviera
Thankfully, the pretty little seaside town of Puerto Morelos, just a few miles down the Yucatan Peninsula, proved a more authentic experience. Originally a fishing village and trading port, development caps have kept the monster resorts at bay, which has helped this part of the coast retain its local charm. We stayed in a cheap resort just off the sweeping white sand beach. By night, the parking lot doubled as a food truck stop serving up some delicious local fare.
Laidback Puerto Morelos
Puerto Morelos is the first stop on the Maya Riviera, the trail of historical remnants left behind by the area’s original inhabitants. Famed for their astoundingly accurate astronomical calendars, and a thirst for human sacrifice, the Mayans were among the most dominant of pre-Columbian societies, along with the Aztecs and Inca. Of the many Mayan sites dotting the peninsula, the most visited are the UNESCO-heritage protected temples of Chichen Itza. Hidden in the thick jungle 3 hours from the coast, interest peaked even further once this beautiful place was named one of the World's new wonders.
El Castillo: the stepped Pyramid at Chichen Itza
The grandest structure is the El Castillo, a colossal stepped pyramid that dwarfs all of the neighboring buildings. Similarly, the grand ball court (where the Mayans played version of basketball), the grisly wall of skulls and the El Caracol observatory demand more than just a fleeting glimpse.
Mayan ball court
On our way further down the coast, Jen and I stopped by Tulum, where we were able to explore a dramatic clifftop temple complex overlooking the sea. Bikes are easily rented in the quirky town, which offers a range of budget accommodation just a couple of miles from more — you guessed it — white sand beaches. By night, Tulum hums with mariachi bands, colorful restaurants and generous happy hours.
Mayan temples and beaches in Tulum
While visitors looking for a glimpse of the real Mexico may be disappointed, the Yucatan was absolutely beautiful, and offered more local heritage more than just sunbathing or partying at an all-inclusive hotel bar. Locals are friendly and rightly proud of their Mayan heritage, while the food and drink is incredible. After months of traveling through South America, Mexico’s laid back pace proved a welcome break, even though the midday heat was unbearable. Regardless, we can’t wait to get back and explore even further. This time, we’ll know not to waste any precious time in Cancun.
By Tom Mountford